By Dickinson R. G.
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12(a)) and causing atmospheric instability and a lower atmospheric pressure that enhances the eastward flow of warm water and in turn favours a dry, high-pressure climate to the west – a reversal of the usual situation. 6 Waves and weather 45 height /cm 14 10 6 2 −2 −6 −10 −14 (a) Fig. 12 −18 (b) (a) El Ni˜no and (b) la Ni˜na are apparent as variations of the Pacific sea-surface height from its mean level, as revealed by instruments on the TOPEX/Poseidon satellite. Courtesy of NASA/JPL-Caltech anomaly / °C 5 4 3 2 1 0 −1 −2 −3 −4 −5 Fig.
4 Capillary waves The exponential decrease in the amplitude of ocean gravity waves with distance below the surface means that, for sufficiently high wave frequencies, only a thin layer near the surface of the water plays a significant part in the wave motion. If this layer is sufficiently thin – for water, around a centimetre – surface tension can perturb or dominate the wave-propagation mechanism. Such ripples are known as capillary waves. We may derive the behaviour of such waves by initially considering their propagation across a puddle or other shallow stretch of water.
Since we have limited our treatment so far to water that is shallow in comparison with the wavelength, the factor kz0 will be small; as previously asserted, the kinetic energy therefore lies principally in the horizontal motion of the water. For typical ocean depths of 100–10 000 m, this regime is limited to wave periods that are rather greater than 20–200 s, respectively; it is interesting, and perhaps significant, that the typical period of ocean swell lies at the limit of this regime. 3 For deeper water, or wave shapes that are smaller in scale (harmonic waves of higher frequencies whose wavelengths are comparable to or shorter than the water depth), our initial assumptions prove invalid, and the vertical motion must be taken into account in our description of the underlying physics: a significant fraction of the kinetic energy will be associated with the vertical motion, and Newton’s second law must be applied in this direction as well.
Decomposition of Ammonia by Optically Excited Mercury Atoms by Dickinson R. G.
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