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The cuisines of Borneo—feasts from the jungle Smoked wild boar stir-fried with freshly-cut bamboo shoots, braised fern tips plucked from the jungle, sweet juicy clams fried with a slathering of chillies and herbs, and raw fish salad drenched with lime juice. These are just some of the delights emanating from the kitchens of Malaysian Borneo, and the list goes on. Sabah and Sarawak are peopled by a bewildering range of ethnic groups, each having their own culinary specialities. The influx of Chinese immigrants during the 19th and early 20th centuries led to the adoption of certain Chinese cooking styles, especially stir-frying, and seasonings such as soy sauce, now a permanent fixture in almost every kitchen.

Coconuts and spice and all things nice Nobody who has sat under the stars on a warm tropical night and smelled the tantalizing fragrance of Satay—tiny spiced kebabs—sizzling over charcoal at a nearby food stall can resist Malay food. The magic in Malay cuisine lies in its spices and herbs. Traditional Southeast Asian spices have been joined over the centuries by Indian, Middle Eastern and Chinese spices, so the partnership of coriander and cumin (the basis of many Malay 'curries') is joined by pepper, cardamom, star anise, and fenugreek—just to name a few of the many spices in the Malay cook's cupboard.

LEFT: The bamboo steamer is an Asian kitchen classic. It consists of at least two round containers made of woven bamboo strips—more can be stacked on if needed—and a lid. Most cooks prefer to place the steamer in the wok over boiling water rather than over cold water, as this allows them more control over the cooking temperature. The food that needs the most thorough steaming is usually placed in the lowermost tier, and the food with the least heat needed, in the top tier. The woven bamboo allows the hot air to circulate and absorbs condensation, and is ideal for steaming dim sum items such as pau and slew maa.

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